Hola mamacitas!

Ok so I'm gonna talk about basic science in hair care (uh, I know right! I thought it was the holidays too!).

Closed (flat)/ normal cuticles is when the third outer layer of the hair strand is smooth, open (raised) is the opposite and normally results to dry/rough and/or altered curls, therefore the aim is to flatten those cuticles chicas!

When I first started my natural hair journey 3 years ago, I was 15 but started researching when I was 14 so I remember coming across all science-y stuff and literally running away (sprinting like I was Usain Bolt) or not even acknowledging the existences of such theories in hair care. However, now I'm gownnn now (yeah right!) - 18 and I got A's In science and additional science so the science fears me not and with my miminal but useful knowledge, ima enlighten you (omg tbh amount of times I have said science so far is starting to give me a headache #flashbacks!)

#leggo! You somewhat remember the acid/alkaline thing right? Or do you vaguely remember watching the birds mate outside as your teacher tried to explain? Well either way, let's start by saying water is neutral. It's pH is 7 #woooo mega exciting! Acids are below 7 as in 0-7 and alkalines are above 7 (as in 7-14). Remember water is neutral so spraying water on your hair does not change the pH level which is why it's so good as an initial moisturising spray before locking in moisture with creams/oils. Changing the ph level of my hair, why would I want to do that? I hear you ask! Ok, fine I'll answer. Only because you're being nice and reading up to this point! Have you ever been scurrred to wash your hair just in case something went wrong? Well now be in control! More acidic products not only help with porosity problems (look out for post on porosity!) but because they smooth down the cuticle, they help your curls POP! When I use more acidic products, my curls spiral like no one's business! Looking at them make me feel dizzy LOL #ThatIshKray!

So if you have suffered from any damage, especially heat damage I'll first suggest a mild protein treatment to strengthen your hair (if you need any recipes just holla!) and do an apple cider vinegar rinse (if you can take the smell and remember to dilute, 1 part water to 3 or 4 part ACV) and products within a ph of near the hairs neutral pH of 5 (Hair actually has a pH that ranges from 4.5 to 5.5, so anything within these pHs are good). Products are better for the hair when they more closely match the natural pH of hair. Products within a pH of 6-7 won't do any harm at all in fact since it stems more towards the neutral pH of 7, if you ever want stretched styles like twistouts, during washing just remember that and dilute more (water: pH of 7). However anything with a pH of above 7 is a no no as your cuticle will be raised and won't maintain moisture! So stay away from alkalines!

Also as well, as acidic products/rinses - for a last rinse splash with cold water to close cuticles as much as poss & ensure super shiny curly healthy hair!

Ok, so I know this is what all up in your face but you made it here! Take it all in, make notes, go and check your products or go and make products! Entirely up to you but I hope this helped! My hair is MBL/WL now so I must be doing something right! :)

Products with pH of 4.5 to 5.5 (more acidic) #YAY
Aloe Vera (I do a water & aloe spray before I seal with Shea butter and/or oils!)
Diluted Lemon Juice (maybe try a diluted lemon juice and honey condish & rinse off?)
Diluted Apple Cider Vinegar (do as clarifier instead of shampoo and/or final rinses)

Products with a pH of above 7 (alkaline) #NAY
Harsh Shampoos (co wash instead!)
Baking Soda (but better than shampoo)
Hair Colour (try henna!)

Lalala loveyoulongtime!